Sydney’s magnificent Hyde Park Obelisk looks like something straight out of ancient Egypt, but believe it or not, this 22-metre tall sandstone tower started life in 1857 as… a fancy sewer vent! Let’s uncover the surprising story of "Thornton's Scent Bottle."

In the mid-1800s, Sydney was growing rapidly, but sanitation was a major issue. Without a proper sewage system, the city's watercourses became foul open sewers, posing a serious public health risk. The solution was Sydney's first underground sewerage system, completed in 1857 under the planning oversight of City Engineer Edward Bell. However, underground sewers produce gases that need venting. Tall ventilation shafts were required to release these gases high above street level.

The ideal spot for the main vent shaft was the highest point in the new sewer network, at the corner of Elizabeth and Bathurst Streets, bordering Hyde Park. But a plain industrial vent wasn't considered suitable for such a prominent location next to Sydney's premier park. In the Victorian era, masking unsightly infrastructure was common. So, the vent was cleverly disguised as a public monument.

The design mimicked Cleopatra's Needle in London, reflecting a 19th-century fascination with Egyptian aesthetics. While Edward Bell likely conceived the idea , the detailed design and construction of the sandstone obelisk were handled by the NSW Department of Public Works. The result looked monumental but served a hidden, practical purpose.

How to get there:

Train: Easiest option. Use St James Station (north end) or Museum Station (south end, closest to Obelisk) on the City Circle line.

Bus/Light Rail: Numerous routes run along bordering streets. L2/L3 light rail stops are nearby. Use a transport app for specific routes.

Driving & Parking: Several parking stations are conveniently located near Hyde Park, with the closest major options being The Domain Car Park (operated by Wilson Parking) and Secure Parking - Piccadilly. Both operate 24 hours a day. Costs vary, but generally, expect weekday hourly rates that can reach daily maximums around $45-$48, though cheaper early bird rates (approx. $19-$28) are often available. Weekend parking typically offers flat rates starting from around $12-$20 per day, and night parking (usually after 5 pm) can be found from approximately $10-$14. Pre-booking online through the respective parking operators' websites is often recommended for potentially lower rates.

What to Expect:

Amenities: A cafe (Hyde Park Cafe/Hydeaway) offers refreshments. Public toilets are available

No Playground: Important: Hyde Park itself does not have a children's playground.

Accessibility: Hyde Park generally has paved paths suitable for strollers/wheelchairs.

Why the Long Face (and Funny Smell)? Uncovering the "Scent Bottle"

The Obelisk was unveiled in 1857 by Mayor George Thornton. Initial public admiration soon soured when people noticed an unpleasant smell lingering around the monument. Releasing sewer gases 22 meters up wasn't enough to eliminate the odor completely. Complaints were lodged about the "nauseating stench".

The Sydney public, feeling perhaps a bit deceived, nicknamed the structure "Thornton's Scent Bottle," a sarcastic nod to the Mayor and the unfortunate smell. This humorous name stuck, adding local folklore to the Obelisk's story – a great fun fact for families! There was even an 1857 proposal to install a fire at the base to burn off the gases, but this was never implemented.

From Smelly Secret to Historic Treasure

Does the Obelisk still vent sewage? No. Sydney's sanitation systems were upgraded over time, separating sewage from stormwater drainage. The Obelisk was repurposed to vent the underground stormwater system, which it still does today. The exact date of this change isn't clearly documented.

The Obelisk is the first purpose-built sewer vent in Sydney and NSW, and the only one made entirely of sandstone. Later vents were typically brick or steel. It's a rare survivor from Sydney's original sewerage system. It hasn't escaped change entirely; its base was shaved on one side around 1917 for road widening. Six smaller obelisks that once surrounded it (possibly forming a sundial) were removed over time.

Despite its humble origins, the Obelisk is now a protected heritage item, listed on the NSW State Heritage Register. This recognizes its historical, technical, and aesthetic significance. Owned by Sydney Water, it remains linked to the city's essential services. It has even been used for modern public health campaigns, famously being covered with a giant pink condom to promote safe sex awareness.

Beyond the Obelisk: Exploring Hyde Park

The Obelisk sits on the edge of Hyde Park, Australia's oldest public parkland, proclaimed in 1810. Spanning 16.2 hectares, it's a vital green space in the city centre. While the Obelisk was the park's first monument , Hyde Park now features other landmarks:

The Archibald Fountain: A stunning 1932 fountain in Hyde Park North depicting figures from Greek mythology.
The ANZAC Memorial: A significant 1934 Art Deco building and memorial in Hyde Park South, near the Obelisk, with the serene Pool of Reflection before it.
Captain Cook Statue: An 1879 statue of the explorer near Park and College streets.
Giant Chess Board: Found in the Nagoya Gardens (Hyde Park North), available for play (usually 8:30 am - 4:30 pm).

Hyde Park itself offers magnificent avenues of trees, providing shade for picnics, and wide lawns for kids to run around. It's perfect for a relaxed family break.

Thornton's Scent Bottle: Sydney’s Hyde Park obelisk